January 31 2014
Haute Couture Spring Summer 14
This season haute couture was mostly about modernity and exploring new directions: the silhouette is more urban and graphic without compromising on the high level of craftsmanship (Giambattista Valli, Vionnet, Bouchra Jarrar). Garments are simplified with a contemporary twist probably to respond to the aspirations of a younger clientele: at Chanel the atmosphere was sporty chic, models wore sneakers plus knees and elbows protections, at Christian Dior mini skirts and laser cut out short dresses or gowns dominated the runway. Printed coats were kind of a big thing already for Spring Ready to Wear (Prada, Miu Miu) this time I particularly loved the tribute to painter’s Paul Gauguin at Maison Martin Margiela, let’s also salute the tattoo “trompe l’oeil” crop top! In a less extravagant way, the lion jungle print at Valentino was also very interesting and new for the brand. Another big trend was the Black Swan theme at Valentino, Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela. Last but not least, the return of the Schiaparelli house, maybe a bit too soon to give an opinion but some looks were definitely worth keeping an eye on it like this high waist printed pants paired with long white gloves and tall black straw hat.